Monday, May 23, 2011

Cumbres

I am coming out of a long hiatus with some images of two mountains I have scaled in Mexico.

The first is the lava domed volcano Ajusco, located to the south of Mexico City, which I climbed on March 22, 2009. At 3,930 meters (12,894 feet), it is the highest point in the Federal District. As such, it is visible from anywhere in the city if one can get a little altitude (when haze and pollution do not obscure it).

I was able to see if from the bedroom of my old 6th floor apartment in La Condesa.


A closer view from an enclave of cabaƱas in DelegaciĆ³n Tlalpan. One can see that it just breaks the treeline. This area is the only part of the Federal District to receive snowfall in winter. The summit to the right is known as the Pico de Aguila (the Eagle's Beak).


At the summit, I encountered multiple crosses, which are a typical feature of peaks in Mexico, high and low.


Ajusco has a double peak: this shot of the higher peak is taken from the lower of the two. I did not realize I was climbing the lower one until I had already reached the top. While the valley in between does not seem impossible to cross, I was wanting for daylight (although I started early, I had spent the better part of the day trying to find my way to Ajusco by bus and clueless taxi, and later walking in search of a trailhead).

I took the most northern route, which leads to the lower peak. My colleagues have since informed me there are two other trails, and the western one will take you to the peak shown below. Look closely and you will see it is also topped with several crosses.


Messages left below to be read from on high.


And life flourishes in the most remote of places. The abundance of lizards in Mexico always reminds me I'm not in Kentucky anymore.


Panoramas from the summit. Fortunately, I came on a clear day and was able to soak in the view of the entire city below. It is a powerful and humbling feeling seeing all of the vast metropolis alone and in utter silence.



Proof I scaled in an unflattering picture. I went alone, which in hindsight was foolish, as the trail can convert into rockslide and the weather can shift rapidly. My descent was in twilight and I was lucky to make it back to the highway just when the sun was setting. My luck did not hold for a taxi or a bus, however, and were it not for the generosity of a family tending to their closed quesadilla restaurant in giving me a ride to the bus station, I may have had to walk it all the way back too.





The second peak is the inactive volcano La Malinche (a.k.a. Malintzin) in Tlaxcala, about two hours east of Mexico City. This I scaled with a group of 9 others last Saturday, May 22nd, 2011. At 4,461 meters (14,636 feet), it is the 5th highest point in Mexico. That's 500 feet higher than Pike's Peak and just over 1/2 the height of Mount Everest.

Here is the approach from the north


The form to the lower right is not a tepee but a granary taking advantage of the tendency of grain to cone when poured. This building type is common to the east of Mexico City in the states of Puebla, Tlaxcala, and Hidalgo (from what I have seen). For a further look inside, I'd recommend seeing Alejandro Joderowsky's movie El Topo.

A view looking back over the trail on the ascent through the pine forest.


A view of the summit from the treeline.


Tlaxcala to the north, from the sand/rockslide. This was the most difficult portion of the entire trail, as every two steps up the sand would slide back one. Coming down was much more fun, as one can slide all the way. Cows were grazing along the slope, which makes me think the altitude must really do something for the grass.


On the ridge leading to the peak.


A striking scene.


The crosses atop La Malinche have been removed (by whom, I cannot say), leaving only their bases. Other signs of religious activity are present, however.


The summit.


Eight of us made it to the peak.