Sunday, August 23, 2009

Cancun & Tulum

Facing an enormous backlog but never liking to fully abandon anything (ever like a guy who takes 12 years to finish a second bathroom), please bear with me while I bring my travels up to speed. Descriptions will be terse, as I'm short on time and I realize many are probably only looking at the pictures anyway.

I was in Cancun for one night. I won't dwell on this most American of places in Mexico, as it pretty much lives up to all of the well known cliches it is known for (yes, I was even offered to take a shot of some neon green beverage directly from the cleavage of a hefty American co-ed, a total stranger). The drive to Plaza 21 showed us some of the enormous sprawling anyomous 2nd world city that supports the hotels isolated to the sliver of sand bar along the coast. The view above is from one of the few publicly accessible portions, which illustrate the great discrepancy of resort culture here on the Mayan Riviera or anywhere: the most beautiful beaches pair off with some of the cheapest urbanism imaginable.

Further south is the village of Tulum, whose beaches, nearly as nice as Cancun's but without the looming 30 story hotels and unquestioned acceptance of US $$s has made it the spot on the Riviera for hippies and wannabes the world over. Above is the low-impact cabana we stayed in. It's nice to sleep with the sound of the waves only a few dozen feet away, although the early morning spray has no trouble finding its way through the cracks in the wall and the mosquito nets onto your face. Besides that and the food, I cannot really complain about Tulum, as it's a great cheap alternative to the resorts further north, and I met only amazing and very nice people there.
Tulum, of course, is named for the Mayan ruins located there. Unlike most Mayan ruins, this citadel was still occupied when the Spaniards started to venutre out from their Carribean outposts and explore the mainland coast. Also unique is the fact that this site is surrounded by a protective wall like a medieval European or Chinese town (most Mesoamerican sites had no perimeter walls) and that it is backed up against the coast instead of tucked deep in the jungle. This later fact, that there is a beach within the archealogical zone itself, makes Tulum a place to satisfy history buffs and sun worshippers alike.
The portals there particularly struck me. Take this one in the city wall, utilizing the typical Mayan corbbled arch. It is particularly telling of the height of Mayans and the fact that they had no pack animals. And some of the entrances to the ceremonial structures have an uncanny resemblance to the preachers door in the wedding scene in Beetlejuice.





Well, so much for short entries.

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